Introducing Chen Shi, visionary designer, driven by a deep passion for bringing her concepts to life, viewing fashion as a narrative told through meticulously crafted fabrics. Inspired by her early experiences in Fuzhou, China, and refined by her studies at Parsons in New York, she creates bold, modern designs that empower women to express their individuality and rebellious spirit.
Can you introduce us to the creative force behind the upcoming brand?
In my opinion, elevating designs to new heights involves crafting fabrics that seamlessly align with the overarching theme. The relentless passion to persevere, until my design concepts come to life is the primary driving force behind my creativity. I find immense joy in the entire design process. Delving into the uncharted territories of unknown fabrications, constructions, and themes, I view clothes as the designer’s narrative—an integral element that propels me forward as a creator. My vision is centered on fashion that makes a bold and edgy statement, catering to customers who seek individuality, self-expression, and a rebellious spirit.
In what moment did you decide you would like to become a fashion designer & what drives your passion for fashion?
Hailing from the dynamic city of Fuzhou, China, my fascination with fashion predates my formal academic endeavors. Growing up in a courtyard house under the care of my grandmother, I was captivated by her use of the vintage butterfly sewing machine. Witnessing her dismantle worn-out garments, meticulously match stripes and colors, and skillfully piece them together to craft tablecloths and hand towels felt like a magical transformation, sparking my early interest in fashion.
What motivated you to pursue your fashion design studies at Parsons in NY, and how has this international experience influenced your creative process?
The opportunities to exchange ideas with talented designers from around the world and the inclusiveness of creativity at Parsons, coupled with the rich and open artistic environment in New York, are the reasons why I chose to study at Parsons. Enrolling at Parsons represents a pivotal juncture in my career trajectory. It fosters heightened self-awareness and refines my aesthetic preferences. The prospect of immersing myself in a vibrant creative environment and exchanging diverse ideas, techniques, and artistic languages with designers globally is instrumental in honing my professional design skills.
What initially drew you to the theme of arms and armor for your thesis collection?
I draw inspiration from ancient arms and armor exhibitions, captivated by the unique construction and functionality of armor. These pieces are much more than mere tools of warfare; they hold significant symbolic and cultural meanings, embodying ideals of honor, bravery, and martial prowess. Although historically women did fight in battles and wear armor, it was much less frequent, and in a male-dominated context, arms and armor were tailored exclusively for men. I want to design modern versions of armor specifically tailored for women.
How did your visit to the MET exhibition influence your creative process?
The inspiration to use leather came from the Met exhibition. I was impressed by its introduction to the functionality and emblematic meaning of armor. Through further research, I discovered that ancient armor makers used leather to pattern iron armor. Leather armor was prevalent throughout the Middle Ages. It served as an underlayer, an overlayer, or covered specific parts of the body. Also, leather is a material closely tied to armor in a fashion context, as it is both wearable and usable in modern times. Many fashion designers, like Jean Paul Gaultier and Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, have utilized leather in their designs. Therefore, I decided to initially develop my materialities with leather.
Can you describe the techniques you used, such as screen-printing and heat press, to transform historical images into contemporary prints?
After extensive testing with screen printing and heat pressing, I’ve determined that the technique should vary based on the materials used. For leather and pleather, I use heat pressing, while screen printing works well with a broader range of fabrics, including organza and silk. However, for materials like linen and mesh, which don’t suit screen printing, I opt for digital fabric printing. I initially started with heat pressing but switched to screen printing because the limitations of my equipment made it challenging to achieve fine details with heat pressing on dark fabrics. Screen printing offers a wider color range and ensures greater detail in the prints.
Do you feel that your wearable pieces, crafted for modern-day “battlefields,” enable women to showcase their boldness, edginess, individuality, self-expression, and rebellious spirit in their daily lives?
Definitely. I captured photos of their permanent armor collection and transformed these visual materials into captivating prints. I purposely enlarged the size of the prints and varied the ink used on different materials. Additionally, I changed the number of print passes for each piece to mimic the shine and motifs of armor to the utmost extent. These pieces are not just fashion statements; they are symbols of strength and confidence, enabling women to feel empowered and assert their presence in any environment.
What exciting innovations and designs can we expect from you in the near future?
I’m planning to dive deeper into screen printing techniques and create a complete look where every item—shoes, glasses, earrings, hats, necklaces, and bags—is entirely screen printed. My vision is centered on fashion that makes a bold and edgy statement, catering to customers who seek individuality, self-expression, and a rebellious spirit.
Narratives in Fabric
Credits:
Designer: @shic822
Photographer: @chloeeege
Videography: @xiaohhan_chang
Model: @sierrarlang
Assistant: @ dddddaisyyyyy_