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Editor Nasty2018-04-09 10:32:012018-04-23 09:28:15J. JungIn a world where fashion often races toward the future, Bhavna Yadav is a designer who finds her rhythm in honoring the past. Her latest creation, a striking wooden clutch adorned with the form of a Madagascar chameleon, is more than an accessory. It is a conversation between continents, cultures, and centuries-old craftsmanship.
The chameleon, a creature of rare beauty and adaptability, has long fascinated naturalists for its kaleidoscopic skin and quiet grace. For Bhavna, it became a metaphor for transformation, not just in nature, but in the way traditional crafts can evolve to find relevance in contemporary design. “The Madagascar chameleon embodies vibrancy and fluidity,” Bhavna explains. “It’s nature’s way of painting with light and color. I wanted to honor that language of transformation while giving it an Indian voice through Usta Kala.”
Usta Kala: A Legacy from Bikaner
Originating in the royal courts of Bikaner (India), Usta Kala is a highly specialized art form traditionally used to decorate camel leather. The technique is defined by its meticulous application of gold leaf embossing and natural pigments, often in intricate floral and geometric motifs. Passed down through generations, the craft has adorned everything from ceremonial saddles to ornate decorative panels for palaces.
However, in the modern world, Usta Kala has faced a dwindling demand. Many artisans have struggled to keep their craft alive, as the markets shifted away from handmade luxury rooted in heritage.
Collaboration Across Time and Space
Bhavna spent weeks in Bikaner, immersing herself in the rhythm of the workshop, where the faint scent of natural pigments and the glimmer of gold leaf filled the air. She worked closely with master artisans, studying the way their hands moved, how each stroke and emboss carried a lineage of practice.
Instead of camel leather, Bhavna chose polished wood as the canvas, allowing the natural grains to complement the fine detailing of Usta Kala. The chameleon motif, drawn from her sketches inspired by the Madagascar species, was shaped in relief, providing a tactile surface for the artisans to bring alive with their gilded patterns and jewel-toned colors.
“This wasn’t just about placing a design on an object,” Bhavna shares. “It was about letting the craft breathe in a new form, while making sure its essence remained untouched.”
A Modern Frame for a Timeless Craft
The clutch is not merely decorative; it is an object of storytelling. The chameleon’s curling tail, its poised stance, and its vivid, stylized patterns are rendered in gold, vermilion, jade green, and lapis blue. Every detail carries the slow, deliberate labor of human hands. The brass clasp, understated yet bold, anchors the design in functionality while echoing the golden threads of the artwork.
By translating Usta Kala into a modern accessory, Bhavna bridges two worlds: the deep cultural roots of Bikaner and the contemporary language of global fashion. The piece speaks to a new generation of consumers, those who seek not just beauty, but meaning in the objects they carry.
Preserving Culture, Creating Change
For Bhavna, this clutch is not a singular project but part of a larger mission to keep endangered crafts alive by weaving them into present-day narratives. “Design can be a lifeline,” she says. “When you give a craft a new purpose, you give the artisans a reason to pass it on. You turn tradition into something living.” The Madagascar Chameleon clutch is already being recognized as a piece of wearable art, a collector’s item that carries both aesthetic value and cultural significance. It stands as proof that heritage, when nurtured thoughtfully, can adapt as gracefully as the chameleon itself.
Through this creation, Bhavna Yadav doesn’t just celebrate beauty. She celebrates resilience, the resilience of a craft, of a culture, and of creativity itself.




Chameleon / Bhavna Yadav
Credits:
Design: Bhavna Yadav / @ybhavana




