Goth Never Dies / Nosferatu-core

by Amelie Stanescu.

You already know this—goth never really dies. It just keeps getting resurrected in different aesthetics, different decades, different underground circles until it seeps into the mainstream and suddenly everyone is wearing black lace and calling it dark academia. And this time? This time, it’s no different.

2025 is the year of Nosferatu-core. Or Nosferescu-core, as my archivists like to call it. Forget sexy, bloody Dracula in a velvet cape. We’re talking real vampires—the ones who look like they’ve lived too long and haven’t eaten in a long time, who wear decay like a status symbol, who carry the weight of time in their silhouettes. This is not Edward Cullen. This is the real deal.

Robert Eggers’ Nosferatu (2024) is not just a horror film. It’s a visual manifesto, a world so obsessively built that even the tiniest details in the costuming tell a story. And Linda Muir? She ate. Muir has worked with Eggers before (The Witch, The Lighthouse), so we already knew she was a stickler for historical accuracy. But in Nosferatu, she goes beyond just getting the period right. She uses clothing as a language, every detail whispering something about class, survival, power. My favorite example? The corset of Ellen Hutter, played by Lily-Rose Depp. In 1830s Germany, wealthy women didn’t dress themselves—someone else did it for them. That’s why their corsets were laced in the back. But Ellen? She wears a front-lacing corset, something she can tie herself. That one detail? It tells you everything. She’s not rich. She’s independent. She’s probably struggling. It’s such a quiet way to communicate class, autonomy, and survival. When costuming is this good, you don’t need dialogue, the clothes are already speaking.

And everything in this film feels lived in. Muir refused to take shortcuts—no modern fastenings, no off-the-rack period costumes, no lazy styling. Every piece was built from scratch, using historically accurate techniques. That’s why the whole film feels so immersive—because it’s grounded in the reality of its time. The more believable the world, the scarier the horror.

The impact of Nosferatu on fashion is real. This is probably the only macro trend of 2025 so far.

Look at Ann Demeulemeester. Ok, it has always been about romantic darkness, but this Spring/Summer 2025 collection, designed by CD Stefano Gallici (who is finally proving himself, by the way), is straight-up Nosferatu if he got lost in Antwerp and decided to stay. High Victorian collars, sheer poet shirts, slouchy boots that drag across the floor like they’ve been through centuries. It’s elegant and chaotic at the same time because real darkness isn’t polished—it’s fraying at the edges. And then there’s the ripped denim, which makes this even more interesting. It’s for someone who’s both ancient and modern, someone who refuses to fully belong to any era. That’s the real vampire energy—being out of time, floating between centuries, wearing your own decay like a signature.

Also, I recently discovered Ziggy Chen, and his work made me immediately think of Thomas Hutter, Nosferatu’s naive protagonist—the guy who gets sent on a doomed journey to Transylvania and comes back looking like he’s seen some shit.

Ziggy Chen’s entire aesthetic is textural storytelling. His garments always look like they’ve already lived. There’s an aged quality to everything—muted, distressed, sometimes even literally disintegrating at the seams. His fabric manipulation is insane; it looks like he’s weaving history into his textiles. He’s been doing this for a while, but in 2025, his aesthetic is hitting different. The layering, the undone tailoring, the fabrics—all of it feels like a vampire who has been wandering the earth for centuries. This isn’t a costume; it’s a way of being.

If there’s one thing 2025 is proving, it’s that fashion trend fatigue is real. We’ve cycled through microtrends at an exhausting pace. The industry has been stuck in an endless loop of recycling, regurgitating, and repackaging nostalgia, and honestly? People are tired.

But here’s the shift: this is the year fashion is becoming personal again. Instead of chasing whatever TikTok is telling us to wear, we’re seeing a move toward deeper, more emotionally charged aesthetics. Clothes that feel lived-in, that tell a story, that reject the glossy, algorithm-approved aesthetic in favor of something raw, romantic, and real.

And if there’s one aesthetic that will define this shift, it’s Nosferatu-core. Because what is Nosferatu, if not the ultimate rejection of modernity? Clothes that look like they’ve existed before you, garments that carry history, silhouettes that make you feel like you belong to no specific era—or all of them at once. It’s about dressing like yourself, without caring if it fits into a trend cycle. It’s about rejecting fast fashion, rejecting perfection, rejecting disposable aesthetics. It’s about finding beauty in the undone, the eerie, the timeless. And when we look back at 2025, I hope this is what we will remember. Not the fleeting trends. Not the noise. Just this feeling.

Goth Never Dies / Nosferatu-core

Credits:

Words: Amelie Stanescu / @chez.amelie
Podcast: The Fashion Archives
Editor: Anca Macavei / @ancamacavei

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