A Laboratory Of Fragrance / Le Labo

A spotlight on Le Labo, the brand that revolutionised modern perfumery, revealing the behind-the-scenes process and inviting us to become part of the creation of evocative, unforgettable scents.

A Laboratory of fragrance | The brand’s name, French for “The Laboratory”, reflects their mission to make the perfume- making process accessible to all. Each store is designed as a personal “laboratory,” allowing customers to experience a traditionally behind-the-scenes process firsthand.
This approach, referred to by the founders as soft perfumery, is evident in every aspect of Le Labo’s fragrance creation. Every step, from the meticulous selection of raw materials to the in- store bottling and personalisation, is marked by thoughtfulness and intention. “We believe the soul of a fragrance comes from the intention with which it is created and the attention with which it is prepared.” Le Labo’s inaugural location at 233 Elizabeth Street in Nolita, New York City, USA, set the tone for its distinctive aesthetic. The stores, or “laboratories,” along with the brand’s minimalist packaging, embrace a style seemingly influenced by the traditional Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic. Wabi-sabi embodies a worldview centred on the acceptance of transience and imperfection, often translated as “subdued, austere beauty.” This mantra is evident in the intentional deconstruction seen in the stores, such as chipped paint and exposed pipes.

“We believe the soul of a fragrance comes from the intention with which it is created and the attention with which it is prepared.”

The Process | You won’t find any industrially manufactured products at Le Labo. Each product, including fragrances, hair and body care, candles and their respective packaging are created, bottled and packaged by hand. After selecting from a range of 18 classic scents, the ingredients are mixed and bottled on request in-store. Each bottle can be customised with a name or personal message on the tag.
The fragrances consist of an oily base—a blend of essences—combined with an alcohol base through a process called fresh blending.The numbers on the perfumes are not randomly chosen: each fragrance is named after its main essence, while the accompanying number represents the total number of ingredients in the perfume.

The Scents | Le Labo’s most iconic fragrance is perhaps Santal 33, which became a cult classic shortly after its release. This fragrance was developed as a reinterpretation of the Santal 26 candle. It is said that clients loved it so much they began rubbing the wax on their skin as a makeshift solid perfume. Santal 33 combines smoky, sensual sandalwood with iris and leather, creating a perfect unisex signature scent. Another standout scent is Another 13. Originally a collaboration with AnOther Magazine, this fragrance was so well received that it became part of Le Labo’s permanent collection. Due to its high concentration of Iso E Super, Another 13 needs to be tested on skin, as it is barely perceptible on paper. The Ambrette seeds, sweetened by pear, make it an addictive skin scent. Le Labo’s latest release, Lavande 31, joined the collection last year. This is not your typical lavender scent; it opens with bergamot and neroli, leading to a base of tonka and amber. Clean and dirty at the same time, it plays with contrasting notes in true Le Labo fashion. The brand also offers a city exclusive collection of fragrances, available only in select cities and not sold online. For instance, Vanille 44 can only be found in Paris. However, during the entire month of September, Le Labo enthusiasts worldwide can access this exclusive collection at any of the brand’s laboratories. The concept of city exclusives originated when the founders, captivated with Japan after opening their first store in Daikanyama, created a fragrance to embody their connection to the city. This led to the addition of 14 other cities to the collection, each scent representing the emotional ties and memories associated with its respective city. As we ponder what scent would best capture Milan’s essence, it prompts us to reflect on the olfactory memories and emotional connections evoked by this vibrant city. If Milan had a scent, what would it be?