Defying Boundaries

A chat with Wirat Tengchiang, the creative force behind the brand TENWI.

Step into the world of TENWI, where fashion becomes a voice and every piece tells a story. As an emerging designer, TENWI challenges conventions with a bold, unapologetic vision. Each creation is a statement, blending artistry and emotion to provoke thought and spark conversation.  From his zero-waste graduate collection Reincarnation to the raw, subversive energy of his latest designs, Tengchiang pushes fashion to confront its own boundaries. This is more than design—it’s a manifesto for the new wave.

You are a young designer, originally from Thailand, but you grew up in Vienna. In a previous interview, you stated that you are strongly inspired when you are visiting your family in Thailand. What are some specific inspirations from Thai culture that you often incorporate in your designs?

Growing up in Vienna definitely shaped our design perspective, but it’s our Thai roots that are the foundation of TENWI. The Thai characters in our logo spell out WIRAT, which is not just my first name—it represents bravery and heroism, embodying both physical courage and moral strength. It’s about feeling empowered when you wear our pieces, like you’re part of something bigger, almost like a community of cult leaders who all have a purpose. TENWI celebrates this kind of resilience, strength, and craftsmanship, while also embracing the courage to stand out.
When I visit my family in Thailand, I’m deeply inspired by Thai art and culture, especially the works of Thawan Duchanee, whose dark, powerful art speaks to me on a deeper level. The temples in Thailand, especially the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) and the Black Temple (Baan Dam), leave a lasting impression with their intricate craftsmanship and the energy they exude are something you can’t really find in Europe—it’s grounding, it connects me to my childhood, and reminds me of the deep spiritual roots that have always been a part of my identity. It’s in those moments that I find clarity and inspiration for my designs.

You have a strong belief in sustainability, having done your graduate collection Rencaration entirely zero waste. How do you balance your maximalist style with sustainability?

I would say my focus since my graduation collection in 2020 shifted towards a more minimalist style—simpler colors, but still with intricate details and empowering silhouettes. At TENWI, sustainability goes beyond just materials; it’s a philosophy that includes embracing deconstruction and the natural aging of fabrics over time. We celebrate how materials evolve, gaining character and personality, much like the pieces Helmut Lang championed. Our Avantgarde leather pieces, for example, are made-to-measure and available exclusively through pre-order, reducing waste and overproduction. We also source materials locally, ensuring quality and minimizing our environmental impact. Our upcoming Black Friday drop on 29/11 will be available only for a few days, in very limited quantities, reflecting our commitment to exclusivity and intentionality. For us, sustainability is about creating timeless, enduring pieces that gain meaning as they age, telling a personal story with every mark they collect. TENWI is about craftsmanship, individuality, and creating designs that are meant to last.

Have you found that the “challenge” of being sustainable has led you to even more interesting design ideas?

The challenge of sustainability hasn’t necessarily pushed us to more interesting design ideas, as we’ve always had a ton of concepts we’re excited to explore. But as emerging designers, sustainability does make us think more deeply about how we can implement our ideas efficiently, especially when it comes to the materials we use. For example, our Artisanal Backpack Leather Jacket wasn’t born from a sustainability concept, but from the desire for multifunctionality and flexibility. It’s designed so that when you’re feeling too hot or want to switch up your look, you can simply take it off and wear it over your shoulders—instantly upping your style game. It’s about offering freedom in how you wear it, no matter the situation.
For us, sustainability goes beyond just materials or production—it’s about making style work for everyday life. Take our Slanted Multipocket Leather Cargo Pants, for instance. With eight spacious pockets, you could almost carry your whole life in there lol. They’re so practical that when you wear them, you don’t even need a handbag anymore—because let’s be honest, who actually likes carrying a heavy bag around? We love merging style with function, so you can look great, feel free, and never worry about extra baggage. (I see a lot of brands reducing pockets because they are expensive in production…)

Many young fashion designers, enrolled in fashion school find it hard to imagine their life afterwards. There is a lot of pressure to make it big, immediately. How do you think the pressure of growing up and finding your path in the fashion industry has reflected in your designs? Has this led to a kind of epiphany in your designs, perhaps a favourite design?

The pressure to “make it big” right after fashion school is something I definitely felt, but it’s also something I’ve come to understand as part of the journey. After completing my scholarship master’s at Polimoda, I had the opportunity to assist brands like JW Anderson, Fendi, and Jordanluca, and work with magazines such as Interview, Autre, Highsnobiety and more. During that time, I learned so much from other creatives. However I always thought that interning at a renowned brand for years would be the way to build my own brand, but fashion school taught me that the only way to truly succeed is to put yourself out there and release your work. It’s easy to get caught up in the idea that you need to be part of the system, but in the end, I realized I didn’t want to work in the shadows of bigger companies and get little credit for the work I would put in over years.
What really shifted my mindset was going back to Asia in February 2024. There, I met so many inspiring young creatives who had built their own brands from the ground up, completely independent and without funding. They were figuring it out as they went, and it made me realize that I wanted the same for TENWI. I learned that a lot of things can’t be taught in a corporate fashion environment. In high-scale brands, you’re often responsible for one specific role, but you never really understand the bigger picture—how marketing works, how sourcing and production come together on a global level. This experience taught me that building something of your own is incredibly challenging, but it’s also the most authentic and rewarding path. For me, it’s not about following the traditional route—it’s about going all in, staying true to myself, and creating a brand that reflects my journey and values. And I think that’s something a lot of young designers today can relate to—finding the courage to step out and go for it, no matter how difficult it seems. I also learned that I dont need to be in Milan or Paris anymore, I can work from wherever I want. I have been working from Asia since the beginning of 2024 and it was great, people there are so inspiring.

Would you say that as you mature, your style and taste become more refined?

Absolutely, as I’ve matured, both my style and taste have definitely become more refined. When I was younger, I had so many ideas swirling around, and I wanted to incorporate everything into one design. But over time, I’ve learned to be more selective, to focus on what truly represents my vision and to be more niche in my approach. It’s about being resourceful with my ideas and making sure every piece I create has purpose and meaning. The past three years have been crucial for me in finding my identity and refining my brand. I’ve come to realize that I was ahead of my time, and that’s something I’m proud of—many people have believed in TENWI ever since my graduation collection in 2020, even when it was still developing. Now, I’m at a point where I know that once we have the right financial investors, TENWI is going to make global impacts on culture, especially highlighting South Eastasian Artistry (we are still a minority in the western fashion scene…) Until then, I’m just focused on continuing to grind. The journey has only just begun, and I’m excited to see where it takes us.

You have said in previous interviews that you are strongly inspired by colour. However, a look at your instagram suggests a shift into all black territory with splashes of colour like neon green, crimson red or cobalt blue. Would you say that these accent colours are glimpses of your younger self in your recent collections?

Color has always been a powerful force for me. When I look back at my earlier work, I realize that my younger self was using bold colors as a way to create peace or perhaps to balance out a darker mindset. I can’t pinpoint exactly how I felt back then, but I remember that it was definitely a time when I was grappling with my emotions. In those moments, I used vibrant colors as a form of escape—almost as if to create a world that felt more controlled or positive. Now, as I’ve matured, I’ve found that I can create something darker and more mysterious, yet still be in a good place mentally. It’s a reflection of how my perspective has changed over time. I believe fashion is a form of escape for many, and for me, it’s a way to transform my experiences—especially the ones that are less visible or tangible—into something that speaks through my designs. Right now, I’m subconsciously displaying my past by working in all-black territory, a kind of contrast to the colorful world I used to create. It’s something I couldn’t have done during that darker time, and now it feels like a release. It’s my way of revisiting my journey, but from a place of strength and clarity.

You have recently created a collection that is inspired by the Berlin techno scene and Gen Z’s defiance of the older homogeneous society. What was the starting point of this collection? Was it a feeling of anger towards the sterile reality of growing up that manifested in your personal life?

This collection was definitely inspired by my time in Berlin, where I moved after graduating from Florence to work in styling. Even though I wasn’t initially the biggest fan of techno (I’ve always been more into underground hip hop and UK/US rap) — I found myself deeply connected to the energy of the techno scene. It wasn’t just about the music; it was about the people and the community. Berlin’s underground clubs are spaces where anyone can be whoever they want to be, free from judgment, and where everyone shares a sense of belonging despite their differences. It reminded me of how, on the surface, people see me as distant or intimidating, but once they get to know me, they figured I am actually pretty calm lol. There’s something about that contrast that I really relate to, and I wanted to channel that into this collection.

In a way, the collection is about defiance of the sterile, homogeneous reality that so many of us grow up with, especially in a society that often feels limiting. It’s about embracing individuality and celebrating who you are, even if it’s in a darker, more mysterious light.

Personally this collection has been deeply influenced by past relationships, particularly with women who were navigating darker, more challenging places mentally. These experiences, though difficult, have shaped my understanding of strength and resilience in profound ways. I’ve always been surrounded by incredible women who, despite their struggles, exhibited inspiring power. Their journeys have shaped how I perceive and portray women. This collection is a tribute to that vision. It seeks to capture the duality of light and darkness within us all, reflecting the multifaceted nature of identity. Through my designs, I want to celebrate the unshakable strength that fashion has in transforming how we feel and empowering us to confront the world with confidence and defiance.

An inspiration of yours is clearly Rei Kawakubo, having said that you are inspired by ugliness in a similar way to Kawakubo. How do you transform ugliness into beauty?

Rei Kawakubo is truly an amazing inspiration, and I’d love to work with her one day. What I admire most about her work is her ability to find beauty in what others might consider “ugly.” For creatives, I don’t think anything is truly ugly—we find beauty in the details. I could take photos of everyday things and make them look aesthetic, but my camera roll is already full (shoutout to Apple for limiting my iCloud storage lol).

When it comes to transforming what society deems as “ugly” into beauty, I often take things that are considered taboo or unconventional—like showing too much skin in public spaces, too many piercings, tattoos, or even bruises—and use them to fuel our campaigns. For us, these elements become symbols of strength and self-expression.

Leather pieces, for example, have been associated with punk culture for a while, and that’s something many people would see as “ugly.” But we approach it differently. Rather than just leaning into the raw, rebellious aspect of leather, we make it look refined—something you could wear to a family dinner, business meeting or even to your next underground rave. It’s about making the “ugly” sophisticated and versatile, shifting the context and creating something that transcends stereotypes.

With our ready-to-wear pieces, we want to make fashion more accessible, but we also love being provocative. Words like “CUNT” and “P13C3X0FXSH1T“ are controversial, but for us, it’s all about how you interpret them. If you read “CUNT” as something empowering or sassy, that’s your choice. If someone finds it insulting, that’s on them. Fashion, like art, is open to interpretation. We want to challenge perceptions and break away from the serious, elite image of high fashion. We want fashion to be fun, relatable, and to spark dialogue. I’ve had people compliment the “CVNT” top as I walk into a club or even at the supermarket lmao. Our “P13C3X0FXSH1T” Slim T-shirt was almost sold out before it was released (some New Yorkers wanted to buy them after seeing my friends wearing them.) That’s the beauty of challenging the norm—people connect to it in their own way, and it creates something that resonates beyond just aesthetics.

Are there any other designers you are inspired by, perhaps contemporary designers? 

We are more drawn to those who push boundaries and experiment with new ideas. Aside from Helmut Lang and Carol Christian Poell, also designers like Y/Project’s Glenn Martens, who plays with unconventional proportions and unexpected silhouettes. He’s managed to mix avant-garde with streetwear in a way that feels fresh and relevant for today’s culture.

We also admire designers who are breaking away from traditional formats and making fashion more inclusive and experimental. For example, 1017 ALYX 9SM—Matthew Williams brings in that industrial, street-inspired vibe while still keeping it high-fashion. His ability to mix those worlds resonates with us because it’s about creating something that’s both wearable and impactful.

And as for the underground scene, there are so many emerging brands out there that are doing incredible things. They might not have the big budgets, but they have so much soul in their work. These are the people creating something real—challenging norms, reflecting their own stories, and engaging with culture in an authentic way. This is the kind of space I want to be in. And honestly, it’s where the future of fashion lies: less about the corporate machine and more about the creative individuals who are daring to make something new.

Oh, and as for 14th Addiction, if anyone knows if he’s still in Asia, hit me up—I’m about to head back soon, and I’d love to see if I can connect with him.

Aside from your recent collection, could you tell us more about future plans for TENWi? What should fans of your brand be expecting?

TENWi is about building a culture that goes beyond just fashion. We want to create a space where people can connect, express their power, and find their community. We’re actively seeking artists, musicians, designers, and creatives from all fields to collaborate with us and help shape what’s next. Expect more limited drops, each one more exclusive than the last – blending luxury with purpose, creating pieces that have a deeper meaning and serve a real function.

While I can’t reveal too much, I can promise that the next chapter for TENWi will be full of surprises. Icons like Alton Mason, Destroy Lonely, and Paris Hilton have already worn our pieces—you won’t want to miss what’s next ++

Defying Boundaries / TENWI

Designer: Wirat Tengchiang / @tenwiofficial
Words: Donika Osmani / @dznika
Editor: Anca Macavei / @ancamacavei

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