To behold her was to glimpse something larger than the world itself—a fleeting encounter with the unknown, a reminder of the vastness beyond. Muse Polina in a symphony of absence and presence, a quiet dance of the void photographed by Marco Giuliano and styled by Anca Macavei featuring conceptual couture eyewear pieces designed by Erik Saetre.
Design is a blend of skill and passion. Was there a specific moment when you realized your talent could be more than just a hobby—that it could shape your future?
I wouldn’t say there was one specific moment, but it was a dream of mine to work within the field of automotive design for quite some time. Early on, I was so focused on landing that first job in such a competitive field that once it happened, my main concern was performing well and proving myself rather than reflecting on the bigger picture. Looking back now, after more than a decade in the industry and navigating through multiple roles, that initial worry has faded. Over time, with experience and growth, I’ve gained more confidence in myself and my work. It’s been a gradual realization that this passion has truly shaped my life and given me the opportunity to work within a field I admired from afar..
As a multidisciplinary artist, which medium feels closest to your heart? Is it the one you began with, or has that evolved over time?
My approach has definitely evolved over time, and while I started with more traditional methods like sketching and aiming to create eye-catching renderings, my process has shifted to something much more direct and efficient. These days, I lean heavily into 3D modeling and prototyping, which has become a medium I feel deeply connected to. There’s something incredibly rewarding about translating rough ballpoint sketches into 3D forms, iterating on them, and then bringing them into the physical world through 3D printing or other methods. Especially with eyewear design, where the form has to interact so intimately with the human face, prototyping is essential. It’s not just about creating something visually striking; it’s about ensuring it works harmoniously in a physical context. So while my methods have evolved, I’d say the heart of my work lies in the hands-on process of refining form, surface, and function through a blend of digital and physical mediums.
How does the theme of human connection resonate in your work, and in what ways do you see technology transforming the way we interact today?
Human connection is fundamental to my work, as everything I design is meant to be used, worn, or interacted with in some way. It’s about creating something that integrates naturally into how we engage with the world and each other. As for how technology is transforming interaction, it’s evolving so fast that predicting the future feels nearly impossible. I do think we’re moving toward a future where AI and other advancements create more adaptive, intuitive, and personalized interactions. We might also develop an additional layer of information—augmented realities or interfaces that blur the line between the physical and digital worlds, adding new dimensions to how we perceive and communicate. Whether it’s immersive environments or even something as far-out as thought-based communication, these advancements could redefine how we connect. But at the end of the day, these are just some of my thoughts.
From sleek aerodynamics to bold, futuristic aesthetics, your vehicular designs go beyond transportation—they feel like statements. What narrative are you weaving through these designs?
I try to move away from traditional ideas of automotive design, focusing instead on creating bold, dramatic statements through aesthetics. For me, sleek aerodynamics and extreme proportions aren’t just about movement—they’re about making a lasting impact. I want these vehicles to feel like they belong to a more advanced, almost otherworldly reality. By combining sculpted, organic shapes with bold angles and unexpected shapes, I aim to create designs that are both striking and thought-provoking. On a deeper level, I try to evoke a sense of timelessness and otherworldliness in my work. These vehicles aren’t just tied to our present—they’re a glimpse into a future or alternate universe where design represents progress and vision. The dramatic surfaces and bold looks are meant to challenge how we think about cars, pushing the idea that they can be more than just transportation. For me, I approach them more as highly technical and intricately complex sculptures rather than just vehicles for mobility.
Los Angeles is a city defined by its sprawling, ever-evolving identity. How do its chaos and charisma inspire your creative energy?
Los Angeles is an incredible place to be as a designer because it’s a city where so much collides—people, cultures, industries, and ideas. The diversity and energy here are unmatched. You’re constantly surrounded by a high level of creativity across every genre of art and design, from fashion and architecture to automotive innovation and cutting-edge technology. It’s a city where inspiration comes at you from all directions—the vibrant nightlife, world-class museums, car culture, the entertainment industry, sports, and even the natural beauty of the environment. This mix definitely fuels creative energy. It’s a place where anything feels possible, where experimentation and reinvention are part of the fabric. The pace and intensity of the city push you to think bigger and be bolder in your work. For me, it’s not just about living here; it’s about being immersed in a constantly evolving creative environment that challenges and inspires you every day. As a European, I find there’s a stronger sense of possibility here compared to Europe. Europe can sometimes feel more constrained or stagnant, whereas here, there’s an energy and optimism that encourages bold ideas and the belief that anything is achievable.
Your sunglasses feel like they’ve stepped out of a dystopian dreamscape. What was the initial spark of inspiration behind their design?
It’s tough to pinpoint an exact spark because the process often begins with a feeling—an attitude or mood I want to capture and translate through form, surfacing, and silhouette. Inspiration can come from anywhere: a visual reference, sound, or even objects completely unrelated to fashion or eyewear. I often look at things outside the typical context and extract cues that can be reinterpreted into something totally different. When designing eyewear, I think a lot about how they interact with the human face. There’s something fascinating about altering or enhancing facial expressions through design. With the eyes hidden, the glasses take on the role of conveying a specific mood or attitude—something that the eyes and face would otherwise express. It’s liberating in a way; you can dictate a new, and totally foreign expression and build from there. The process is iterative—chipping away, refining, amplifying or reducing elements until the design communicates exactly what I envision. It’s about creating something that feels bold, sculptural, and a little surreal and maybe even uncomfortable at first.
Collaborating with a powerhouse like Balenciaga must have been a transformative experience. What were some challenges or breakthroughs you encountered during the process?
Collaborating with Balenciaga was both refreshing and eye-opening, especially coming from an automotive design background. The process was surprisingly different—it felt more straightforward and honest. In automotive design, there are often layers upon layers of decision-making, opinions, and compromises that can dilute the original vision. It’s a long and winding road to take a concept to production because you’re dealing with such a complex product that involves countless departments beyond design. That’s why I’m always in awe when a car company and their design team manage to put out a great piece of car design. From what I’ve seen, it’s extremely challenging to maintain the purity of a theme through such a rigorous process.
By comparison, Balenciaga’s approach felt much more direct, subjective and maybe more emotion driven. I presented 5–6 proposals, and Demna and his team immediately dismissed all but one, which stood out for its unique negative, concave shape—a feature they said they’d never seen in eyewear before. That concept, initially named “Concave” for lack of a better term and later known as Balenciaga Infinity, underwent a few iterations to fine-tune the extremity of its shape and optimize details like the arm design. However, the final product stayed remarkably true to the initial expression, which isn’t always the case. I also noticed how much my background in automotive and aerospace design helped, particularly in mastering complex surfacing and 3D modeling. These skills seemed less common in fashion, but at the same time, fashion is far more experimental and less constrained by convention, which was incredibly inspiring. Ultimately, I’m grateful for the opportunity—it was a reminder of how different industries can offer unique strengths and approaches to creativity.
These sunglasses seem to blur the line between accessory and armor. Do you view them as an extension of the wearer’s personality, or as a protective shield against the world?
Funny you say that, because I’ve always thought of them as facewear—more like a face shield, half-helmet, or mask than a traditional accessory. There’s something intriguing about altering the expression of the face, adding an element of mystery or anonymity. A movie that often comes to mind for me is Eyes Wide Shut—there’s a fascinating tension in how masks create both concealment and intrigue, which I think relates well to eyewear design. It’s about enhancing or reshaping how the wearer is perceived, almost like telling a story through the silhouette and form. As a big sci-fi fan, I naturally draw a lot of inspiration from futuristic helmets and advanced equipment and armor. It just resonates with me. That said, it’s not about directly copying the complex, technical aesthetics of sci-fi but rather extracting the essence—distilling it into something cleaner and more timeless. I aim to capture that futuristic attitude while keeping the design refined and instantly recognizable.
Selecting materials for such a striking design must have been a meticulous process. How did you strike the balance between durability and wearability while staying true to your vision?
Yes and no. While there is definitely a balance to strike, the process of selecting materials can sometimes feel like a back-and-forth between what is possible and what Is being envisioned. When I first started designing eyewear for Balenciaga in 2021, I learned a lot about the intricacies of working with custom pieces. These designs often push beyond the constraints of mass production and cost-efficiency, which gives you more room to experiment with materials and processes. As an independent designer, the challenge lies in finding ways to create designs that are not only functional and durable but also true to the vision and expression you’re aiming for. Unlike established brands, there’s no vast network or access to expansive production processes, capital, or resources. The constraints are real, but they also drive a more focused, lean approach. Without the layers of decision-makers, you have the freedom to be highly efficient—every decision is yours, and you can move quickly without waiting for approvals or coordination with multiple departments. While it can be limiting at times, this agility allows for a direct, hands-on approach to design that I value deeply.
Polyurethane molding works well for creating intricate forms and complex surfacing, but I’m always exploring more experimental materials and techniques to push the designs further. While material limitations can be challenging, they also fuel creativity and focus. Surface treatments like satin, mirror, gradient, and opaque finishes, along with PVD for a reflective quality, play a key role in the design’s expression. Durability is crucial, so utilizing Cerakote coating for protection is a good way to go. I’m also intrigued by materials with unique properties—soft, inflatable, or adaptive—that could unlock new possibilities in eyewear. The future of material science is exciting, and I’m eager to see what new technologies and methods emerge.
Your work is bold, unapologetic, and highly experimental. Do you believe that design should provoke as much as it solves problems?
Yes, I do. It’s important to push the boundaries, be a little uncomfortable, and even go too far at times—because it’s through provocation that we evolve and find new ways of expressing ourselves. By challenging expectations, we drive development, discover new aesthetics, and ultimately expand how we think and create.
When creating something so visually striking, how do you navigate the line between functionality and pure aesthetic impact?
For me, it’s about finding a balance without overthinking it. A design has to look striking, but it also has to work. Functionality is always the foundation, but I’m not afraid to push the boundaries aesthetically. If something looks bold or challenging, it’s because it’s supposed to make a statement.. At the end of the day, it has to work, but it also needs to stand out. Although I’m definitely guilty of emphasizing aesthetic over function at times.
What was the biggest challenge in bringing such daring concepts to life? Were there moments when you felt the design might be too ahead of its time?
The biggest challenge isn’t really about the design being too ahead of its time, but more about constantly questioning if it’s futuristic or advanced enough. With 3D modeling, I’m able to analyze and review the design in real time on a 3D manikin, which makes it easier to stay in tune with the feel and flow. Still, I often find myself in a back-and-forth, feeling like the design isn’t pushing the envelope enough, then feeling confident about the direction. The emotional rollercoaster of creating is real—it’s about balancing self-doubt with confidence. The toughest part is narrowing down which direction to take and trusting that the proposal you choose is the right one. There’s always that inner conflict, but it can also push you to refine and improve the design. It’s a challenge, but it’s part of the process.
Do these sunglasses represent a defining moment in your design journey, or are they a stepping stone toward something even more avant-garde?
I don’t really view it that way. For me, it’s more about having fun and expressing myself through the process. I’m enjoying the freedom that comes with designing something like eyewear, where I can have more control over the entire process, which isn’t always the case with the more complex projects I typically work on within automotive and aerospace design. It’s kind of an antidote to that. If people like it, great; if not, that’s fine too. Of course, I care to some extent about how it’s received, as we all do look for validation. But ultimately, I’m just creating and seeing where it takes me. Let’s see where things go in the future.
If these sunglasses could tell a story about the future, what would it be? A utopia, a dystopia, or something beautifully chaotic?
I’m not aiming for a future that’s strictly utopian or dystopian but one that thrives on the balance between innovation and raw, unapologetic expression. I’ve always been drawn to darker, edgier aesthetics—visions that endure because they fuse advanced, futuristic ideas with a tactile, imperfect humanity that feels both timeless and compelling. Certain brands and aesthetics capture this beautifully, balancing sophistication with a sense of edge, creating pieces that feel both otherworldly and deeply relevant. My goal is to channel that darkness while pushing toward a forward-looking, advanced vision that remains inherently human. It’s not about despair but about embracing the depth and complexity of what the future could hold and attempting to distill it down to its essence.
Obsidian Depths
Credits:
Photography: Marco Giuliano / @marcogiulianoph
Styling: Anca Macavei / @ancamacavei
Sunglasses: designed by Erik Saetre / @eriksaetre
Makeup&Hair: Silvia SIdoli / @silviasidolimua
Styling Assistants: Elena Murratzu, Alisia Widjo / @elena.murratzu @alisiawid
Interview: Elena Murratzu / @elena.murratzu
Model: Polina at Fashion Models / @polinau @fashionmodel.it