“I think the feminine body has to be brought out from its exhibitive frame and be more considered as a creator, praiseworthy and powerful existence.” Vaqar S/S17 special feature photographed by Marco Giuliano and styled by Anca Macavei.
On the solemnity of the feminine body, the inhuman face of progress and anti-utopian writings of Aldous Huxley, the mute poetry of Yohji Yamamoto. Personal notes from the edgy side of beauty and a meditation on future dreams. Tomorrow does belong to them, as they are hearing it coming.
In conversation with the self-taught sisters Shiva and Shirin Vaqar now pushing the boundaries of fashion in Iran.
Your clothes reflect a kind of austere, solemn, approach to fashion. I’d like to know more about your vision related to topics like body, femininity & gender and how/if they determine in some ways your creative process.
I think the feminine body has to be brought out from its exhibitive frame and be more considered as a creator, praiseworthy and powerful existence. The designs disaffirm the exhibitive aspect of the woman’s body; they are the outcome of the conflict between our feminine point of view and living in an almost patriarchal community. The effort of flaunting the power of a woman in each piece might reflect the solemn feeling.
Coming from Iran, a Country with a strong tradition and cultural identity, how much are you being influenced by your surroundings and in what way do they reflect in your creations?
I suppose we are influenced by our surroundings more than we can even imagine. Everything we do is a reflection of the situation we’ve been brought up in. Our culture has a deep part in our point of view including our aesthetic. Our roots define a set of values for us and make us agree or disagree with the factors we face with and this is eventually shown in each piece we make unconsciously.
Given the enduring dichotomy between an intellectual/deep meaning of clothes vs their solely aesthetic and functional dimension, what’s your position on this theme?
Our perception of this theme is very personal; desire of looking perfect and feeling confident at one side and wanting everything to have a sense beside its functionality and beauty on the other side, that is the idea.
What was the conceptual startng point of your S/S17 Collection? Are there any specific themes from which you are drawing inspiration?
The starting point of the SS17 collection came to me after reading Aldous Huxley’s novel “Brave new world” which is an anti-utopia story. We wanted to picture the contrast of the modernity and antiquity and try to find a balance in between. We usually get inspiration from our personal impression from even a special character to a book, to put each collection in a specific path.
Who are the “revolutionary minds” that you are looking up to?
There are many artists that inspire us in different ways, in fashion Yohji Yamamoto is our first muse to look up to. We always admire innovation, timelessness, independence, originality and the ideas behind his works.
Shiva and Shirin, as sisters and partners in business, how do you divide your roles inside the brand?
We try to integrate our skills based on our educational background and interests. Shiva mostly does the business parts and Shirin is more involved with conceptual ideas and design.
What are your plans for the immediate future?
Our plans for immediate future are to show our collections in more cities around the world and also expand some parts of our production outside of Iran.