Insomnia

by Yujie Wang and Haven Liu.

A nostalgic imaginary through playful geometry and tactile forms, echoing silhouettes from another time. The garments feel light yet intentional, shaped by emotion and quiet storytelling. Featuring garments by Haven Liu, photographed by Yujie Wang.

Can you describe your design process, from concept to final garment What does a typical day in your studio look like

My process begins with lived experience. I collect moments that stay in the body, sleepless thoughts, emotional afterimages, small shifts in perception. I document them obsessively, not only with writing but through fragments of imagery, fabric sensations, and references that feel more like memory than research.

From there, I build collages. Collage is how I translate an internal state into a visual grammar. It lets me hold contradictions, like softness against tension, clarity against distortion etc.

Then I move into draping. Draping is where the work becomes physical and honest. I treat the body as narration, and silhouette becomes the first sentence. Once the silhouette is speaking, I push into material tests and structural details, refining the texture and the hidden architecture until the garment carries the emotional weight it needs.

A typical studio day looks chaotic from the outside. There are notes, half-finished toiles, collage scraps, fabric swatches, and prototypes everywhere. But it is a controlled chaos. I always know where the story is, even when the room looks like it is falling apart.

Which materials, techniques, or cultural influences are central to your current work, and why

Material is not decoration for me. It is emotional evidence. I return to wool, cashmere, and silk because they hold very specific kinds of feeling. Wool and cashmere carry warmth and density, almost like protection. Silk carries fragility and movement, like a nervous system exposed.

Felting is central to my practice. I love that it sits between control and surrender. Fibers tangle, compress, and become a new surface, and that transformation mirrors the way emotions accumulate, blur, and harden over time. I also use a lot of boning as inner structures. Boning gives the silhouette discipline, but it also creates restraint or a sense of containment. That tension is important to me, especially when I think about insomnia as a psychological space.

Culture in my design is expansive and inclusive. Since my work is driven by storytelling and the psychology of a character, I care more about translating cultural background into silhouette, texture, and construction than presenting culture as a direct visual quote. I am interested in what culture feels like on the body, not only what it looks like.

Tell us about your rituals, what anchors your process when everything else feels unstable

What anchors me is support and stubbornness, honestly. My family gives me a sense of ground, and my love for making keeps me moving when the work becomes unstable.

I try to create new work every year. It is not about productivity as a performance. It is about staying in conversation with my own practice, so I never feel like I have disappeared from what I care about. Consistency is my ritual.

I have a very simple rule. If I begin something, I will take it to the end. The process can be messy, slow, uncertain, even painful at times, but finishing becomes a form of devotion. It is how I prove to myself that I am still here, still building.

Your silhouettes speak in a certain dialect. What emotions or tensions are stitched into them

I’m an introvert, and there are times when I don’t know how to name what I’m truly feeling. Language can fail me, but those are often the moments when I feel the clearest creative impulse. I translate what I can’t say into silhouette and surface.

My silhouettes carry that inner pressure. They wrap, they restrict, they release. You might see softness interrupted by an internal skeleton, or fluidity suddenly tightened by structure. Those choices are not stylistic for me. They’re emotional decisions. The body is where my feelings become legible.

If a favorite garment of yours were a film, a scent, or a piece of music, what would it be, and why

If one of my garments were a film, it would be Alice in Wonderland. Not because I am borrowing its symbols, but because I am drawn to its logic. It is not a realistic world. It is a dream world where rules distort, proportions shift, and every character feels sharply specific.

That is how I think about my looks. They are not strictly ready to wear. They are closer to costume in the sense that each piece carries a personality. Each look is a character with its own emotional agenda. Like Alice’s dream figures, they feel slightly impossible, but their identities are very clear. Through them, I can express different meanings without having to explain them in words.

Insomnia

Credits:

Photographer: Yujie Wang / @yu.jie.wang
Fashion: Haven Liu / @havenliu_
Makeup: Natalie Do / @nataliedo_makeup
Models: Phoebe, Daria at Spot 6 Management / @phoebebreton_ @daria_fedont @spot6management

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