Backstage during Milan Fashion Week.

“The story the clothes told this fashion week was one of redefinition.” stated Vanessa Friedman, The Times’s chief fashion critic. Her words are fitting perfectly with the AW/23 collection of GCDS which explored creative obsessions and inclinations. House life seems to inflame multiple forms of inspiration with textures from velvets sofas and bath mats. However, the collection mixes this warm feeling of security with the game of seduction through the accessories and shoes which operate as sensual weapons. The founder and creative director of GCDS, Giuliano Calza, one of the youngest Italian designers who distinguished himself on the global fashion scene, dedicate a major part of this GCDS collection to his beloved cat. Born in Rione Sanità Calza decide to relocate himself to Shanghai with his brother Giordano (the brand’s CEO), where they discovered manga and gaming culture. All these cultural references are coexisting in GCDS’s genes. The designer’s cat, Kittho, inspired the round bag design with a comic cat face and chokers that looked like pet leashes. Kittho was also the protagonist of a giant reproduction, made by the masters at Fratelli Cinquini Scenografie, artists of the Viareggio carnival, that was the background for the catwalk. As he mentioned in recent interviews, the designer visualised many of the items of the collection in real-life circumstances before he proceeded to the creative phase, such as the iconic full-length leather coat with an optic white (fake) fur trim. He imagined it as the perfect thing to wear on top of pyjamas to open the door for food delivery just like a blanket. A collection full of contrasts and personal references; nothing can be more attractive in a shallow reality than an original-personal creative confession.



Photography: Sara Bisello / @saplenus
Words: Iro Bournazou / @irwb

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