Backstage during Milan Fashion Week.

“The story the clothes told this fashion week was one of redefinition.” stated Vanessa Friedman, The Times’s chief fashion critic. Her words are fitting perfectly with the AW/23 collection of GCDS which explored creative obsessions and inclinations. House life seems to inflame multiple forms of inspiration with textures from velvets sofas and bath mats. However, the collection mixes this warm feeling of security with the game of seduction through the accessories and shoes which operate as sensual weapons. The founder and creative director of GCDS, Giuliano Calza, one of the youngest Italian designers who distinguished himself on the global fashion scene, dedicate a major part of this GCDS collection to his beloved cat. Born in Rione Sanità Calza decide to relocate himself to Shanghai with his brother Giordano (the brand’s CEO), where they discovered manga and gaming culture. All these cultural references are coexisting in GCDS’s genes. The designer’s cat, Kittho, inspired the round bag design with a comic cat face and chokers that looked like pet leashes. Kittho was also the protagonist of a giant reproduction, made by the masters at Fratelli Cinquini Scenografie, artists of the Viareggio carnival, that was the background for the catwalk. As he mentioned in recent interviews, the designer visualised many of the items of the collection in real-life circumstances before he proceeded to the creative phase, such as the iconic full-length leather coat with an optic white (fake) fur trim. He imagined it as the perfect thing to wear on top of pyjamas to open the door for food delivery just like a blanket. A collection full of contrasts and personal references; nothing can be more attractive in a shallow reality than an original-personal creative confession.



Photography: Sara Bisello / @saplenus
Words: Iro Bournazou / @irwb

You may also like

Yang Li S/S18

Fashion | Exclusive
A show inside the show. This season Yang Li teamed up with Swans' frontman Michael Gira for a combined performance that included a special acoustic solo set and the still presence of the models among the crowd. Photographed at Palais de Tokyo in Paris by Marco Giuliano.

Perceptions of Incongruence

Fashion | Spotlight
Paris Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2015 in review by Ana Laura Cuevas.

Damir Doma A/W16

Fashion | Spotlight
Hiding from the world’s glances to build his own laws of composition. Hinting to an austere sensitivity, while deliberately remaining not fully perceptible. Like the mystery of a secret; it cannot be hooked in the present or into anything that could rigorously be called perception. Backstage photography by Marco Giuliano.