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No Shave FW24

Interview with the creative director of the brand Ruby Hung

Exploring the essence of a brand that challenges conventional norms and embraces individuality, the designer redefines fashion as a mindset rather than mere attire. Her work deeply resonates with those who seek to express their true selves through clothing. This conversation offers a compelling insight into a brand that stands as a testament to personal power and fearless creativity.

The brand’s guiding principle is in the mantra, “Clothes are not your identity. The power is in your hands.” Could you elaborate on the mission and vision driving the essence of the brand?

My brand is not an attire, it’s a mindset. I want to see people who resonate with the same message to embody the clothes, to see fearlessness and personal power. Nowadays people care too much about the clothes and the clothes they are wearing, they want to fit in by wearing designer clothes due to the social status they hold. This limits the clothes and the vision for the clothes, this is not inclusive and limits the person and designer. My clothes are assisting you to find yourself and these are defined by you, authentic to yourself, ‘how do you perceive the clothes?’ The clothes are never wearing you, you give power to the clothes. The clothes are very scandalous as I want people to embrace raw beauty and self and leave nothing hidden, freckles wrinkles, these judgements don’t matter. What do clothes mean? – to me, it’s the story, not just the aesthetic.

As an emerging designer, what challenges have you encountered in bridging the gap between Eastern and Western fashion influences?

The culture and beauty standards mainly. Western beauty standards are very superficial and over the top in comparison to Eastern beauty standards which are more subtle and delicate. Yet both societal standards are based on insecurity and conformity. For example, I got bullied when I was younger for being different and once I tried to conform I was still bullied. I realised I wouldn’t win either way, so better to be myself. I have definitely tried to blend into the Western aesthetics visually and pull away from my own culture but then I realised I could do both. My aesthetic is blending the delicate Asian styles in terms of fabric with something more Western in terms of construction or silhouette and using these in cohesion and opposition. I don’t find it difficult because that’s how I was raised, I went to an international school. I understood the culture on both sides. I like to surround myself with all different people from different backgrounds, I like to meet people organically and stay curious.

“The clothes are never wearing you, you give power to the clothes”

Cultural identity plays a significant role among designers. How does your Hong Kong background influence your design thinking and creative process that is showcased in the diverse fashion scene of London?

I was inspired by my ex-partner a lot who was an underground artist, so I was very into that scene. The motto was ‘Keep it small, keep it real’ because the number of people who enjoyed art was small due to the conformist society in Hong Kong. The way they thought inspired me to accept my true self, enjoy the moment, and let that speak for you. They appreciated the nature of the art and raw creativity, just for what it is, this is my brand philosophy. Focus on yourself and trust your vision, try not to get lost in your surroundings.

“Focus on yourself and trust your vision, try not to get lost in your surroundings”

The brand’s recent showcase during London Fashion Week was inspired by hair and its significance as an ancestral hand down. The inspiration is very intriguing and rather peculiar for a fashion collection. Could you tell us more about the collection and the motivation for your inspiration?

Hair is a very intimate thing, Everyone has such a personal relationship with their hair. Being an introvert I tend to observe, rather than speak and hair is the first thing I notice. Hair reflects mental state, identity, and status. This is the element of fashion psychology and people that intrigues me, getting to know people from a distance. Sometimes the fashion industry can be flashy and loud, and my brand reflects a more personal approach. No matter how much you can speak, who you know, or what you are wearing, your hair exposes you, it is your natural state. Everyone has hair and using this organic fibre feels very grounding, it’s accessible and reachable, everyone has the opportunity to be creative with their hair. I want to show human nature in an avant-garde approach that challenges norms by using unconventional materials to make clothes. My clothes encourage contemplation, presenting an alternative paradigm in design thinking.

The narrative behind your latest collection reflects your idea of embracing the ordinary. Taking something as a source of inspiration that is easily negligible. Can you give us some insight on how you draw your inspirations? Let us in on your creative process.

There is no inspiration for me in terms of contemporary fashion references. I find it in daily life, if you focus on the details of life you will find inspiration. As a designer, you’re inspired subconsciously. I take pictures of things I see in my daily life, my trauma, my family, and my memories. Even a pigeon on the street with their feathers splayed out in interesting shapes, I took a picture and allowed this to influence my designs. I like to remind myself ‘I can make ordinary or ugly things, pretty’. The foundation of my creativity is embracing and finding inspiration in the ordinary and accepting the present.

With heightened concerns for sustainability in the industry, many brands are actively striving for a more eco-friendly future. How does your brand actively contribute to this predicament and foster sustainability?

As a human society, we work based on desire, we think of what we want not what we need. I focus on developing timeless designs using high-quality materials because I believe sustainability should come from both the materials and the designs. This reduces consumption and increases longevity. It should be innate. I don’t do it consciously, I do it subconsciously. I’m a hoarder! I collect second-hand fabric and have a gallery of things I work from. Creativity is working with what you have, and discovering beauty from accessible materials, this is what drives me. For example, the 100m tube dress was made from 100 metres of recycled piping tubes! Many of our garments have been made from other garments such as the TONE midi skirt which was originally made from a jumper and can be worn many different ways, encouraging versatility and a sustainable lifestyle. If specific pieces of a previous collection didn’t sell I will recycle the materials to make something new.

Emerging designers are often trendsetters. With the industry rapidly evolving, what do you see as the next big trend in fashion, and how do you anticipate incorporating it into your upcoming collections?

I don’t believe in trends, what is a trend? I don’t consider trends when creating, do whatever ever you want, let the trend follow or not. To me, trends exist to boost consumerism and that’s not my brand goal. Trends and sustainability don’t go hand in hand. All my inspiration is in my head, I allow the things I love to influence me. Designing is not about trends to me, I will never make that conscious design decision, I don’t know what the next trend should be and I don’t care. Don’t be the sheep! Be the wolf! Something my mum said to me which resonated, ‘I can never be myself because I was telling myself who I should be’. Letting that ‘ego’ or ‘perfect self’ go allowed me the space to truly be who I am. So, let the trends go and trust your individuality.

No Shave FW24

Credits:

Designer: Ruby Hung / @rubyhung___
Photographer: Cesare Fraticelli / @ces_fra
Ph Assist.: Thomas McGuigan / @whathadhetolose
HMUA: Ania Zalaszewska / @aniazala
HMUA Assist.: Beatrice Sloss / @byb.ea
Fashion Assistants: Catherine Rasanto / @cath.rst , Kai Samuel / @ohokkai , Meadhbh McLaughlin @meadhbhstextiles
Talents: Mabel from D1 Models / @maybellejosef
Valeriia from D1 Models / @valeriiakaraman
Cheng Peng from J’adore Models / @alexis_cheng_peng
Adukita from D1 Models / @adukita12

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