Who or what motivated you to create your own brand and what is the vision behind?
I always felt I needed to do something in fashion. I felt so strongly about it, yet I did not work in it. This and the constant need of expressing myself as an Arab woman of today, gave birth to MELKYANA. My husband was also an important pillar in the process. He’s in the creative scene, and always saw the potential in my story, so he helped me carve the path.
MELKYANA started as a swimwear label but it won’t be confined to it, I see it grow in different ways and directions, all with the same goal of empowering the Arab woman.
Your brand specialises in swimwear that turns into summer wear. What inspired this concept?
I think I was inspired by my own behavior dressing up. I don’t dedicate my pieces to ‘different occasions’. I can literally wear the same piece to the beach and to dinner. I just don’t believe in putting labels on clothes. Getting dressed depends a lot on your mood and how you want to feel in the moment.
Melkyana is Arabic for “mine” or “my own”. Can you tell us why you chose this name for the brand and the story behind it?
“MELKYANA” stems from Arabic words “ملكي أنا” meaning “mine; my own”, representing the brand’s mission to encourage women to embrace their unique identity, narrative and bodies.
Our society often presents predefined notions of femininity and identity, which can pose challenges for women seeking to express their true selves. But we are seeing the rise of ‘hybrid women’ who are breaking barriers. And I am proud to be part of this movement and we will continue to claim our space.
Your brand aims to create “hybrid swimwear” for “hybrid women”. Can you elaborate on what being a hybrid woman means to you?
Being hybrid means not being confined to one single narrative or box. Not being classified as this or that. It’s being who you want to be in the moment. And it’s the same with clothes, you can style a piece in so many different ways, dress it up or down, but it’s still the same piece.
On your brand’s website you express the desire to evoke “a feeling of liberation and acceptance among Arab women, embracing their flawed and unique image”. Do you believe that Arab women face a lack of representation or are often misrepresented in the fashion industry?
Not necessarily in the fashion industry. The statement is that Arab women are misrepresented in general, in all aspects of life. Take books or movies for example, we’re always represented as ‘sinning women’ in an extreme way. It is true that religion plays a big role in this part of the world, but it’s evolved so much. There is a lot of tolerance and acceptance that you don’t necessarily see in the media. Now when it comes to fashion, we’re seeing a rise of Middle Eastern brand ambassadors but only on a regional level.
Could you give us an example of how would you style your favourite piece in the collection from a day in the beach to a night in the city?
The hybrid backless one piece is my go-to. I Wear it with linen off white pants with slippers for a beach or pool day. At night, I style it with black pants and an over-sized blazer, sleek bun and chunky earrings.
I noticed some of your pieces are inspired by the Egyptian culture, such as the tassel bikini. Besides this theme, what are other concepts you would like to explore in future collections?
I have a tattoo of Nefertiti. I feel a strong connection to my ancestry. Ancient Egyptian civilization is something that intrigues me to my core. Queen Hatshepsut basically invented feminism, so she is definitely a character I want to explore.
Could you walk us through your creative process?
The team is basically me and a design/production consultant. She’s Turkish but based in London. We spend 2 months on video calls sharing ideas and techniques we want to explore. I am very dreamy when it comes to cuts so she’s always there to bring back to the ground. Swimwear is tough because the fit is very important and you are limited with a lot of constraints.
Fabric also plays a role this, we don’t waste so for example we still have a lot of fabric from the first collection, which we are going to use again in the upcoming one. We then meet in Istanbul, finalize samples put in the production order.
Your products are made in a family ran atelier in Istanbul. Im intrigued by your hands-on approach in learning directly from the artisans about the craft and the production process. Could you share more details on the techniques and processes involved in bringing your products to life?
Keep in mind that I do not come from this background. So I am learning everything from scratch, pattern cutting, fabric dyeing, etc.. As I am writing the answers to these questions, I am sitting at the Atelier playing around with the fabric and finalizing the samples for the upcoming collection. We use two fabric types: Stretch Satin & Mesh, so having a clean stitch technique for example is very challenging but it’s a must on all pieces.
What were the most significant obstacles you had to overcome during the creation of your brand?
As any small fashion business, the biggest struggle is funding. We are expected to release collections with every season, refresh our content on a monthly basis, dress celebrities and influencers, be present at showrooms and fashion weeks, all with self-funding. It can get hectic, but you just need to keep going. As you rightfully mentioned in your question, it’s about ‘overcoming’. Oh, and the biggest enemy of it all: Minimum Order Quantities.
Your brand aims to provide a source of inspiration and representation for women everywhere, what message do you want to transmit to the women wearing Melkyana?
You are your own.
What goals do you have for Melkyana in the near future?
One of our main aspirations is to continue providing platforms for self-expression. We want to build a sense of community and connection. We’d like to partner up with modeling agencies in cities like Cairo where modeling is frowned upon, and where young women and men struggle to show who they really are. This is just one of the possible paths for the brand, but we’re still figuring it out.
As we come to the end of our conversation, what message or piece of advice would you like to share with aspiring women in the fashion industry or those looking to follow a similar path as you?
To each their own journey, struggles, successes, ups and downs. Focus on your story and keep showing it to the world. Look elsewhere if you need to, for inspiration maybe but never for comparison.
▶ Play video
Sands of time
Credits:
Photography&Video: Marco Giuliano / @marcogiulianoph
Styling: Anca Macavei / @ancamacavei
Fashion: Melkyana / @_melkyana
Set assistant: Clara Dell’Acqua
Interview: Camila Correa / @cami.correahg
Soundtrack: Caslo – Sonic
Model: Klara at Next Models / @boskovic__klara @nextmodelsmilan